Flying and Installation

This morning Greg and I were going to go flying to maintain his instrument currency. Unfortunately, his Tiger had an inoperative right brake, so instead we took his Long EZ out for a while. That was fun. Incidentally, he keeps both of his airplanes in a standard T-Hangar. Kinda cool that you can squeeze two airplanes into a place meant for one.


When I got back to the Garaggio, I decided to work on some engine accessory installation. It was appealing to work doing installation instead of doing fabrication. There is something nice about putting things together and not having to build every piece. First on the list was determining the routing for oil cooler lines. Once I determined the routing, I got out the Aircraft Spruce catalog and re-read about the process to make up Aeroquip hoses.


You start by putting the anodized socket in a vice and screwing the hose into the socket. It is reverse thread. IMG_3015

Then you put the installation mandrel into the fittings and tighten.


Then using a ton of muscle, you screw the fitting into the hose and socket. It takes a lot of pressure and a lot of rounds turning the mandrel. A bit of light oil or lubricant helps. Notice that there is a piece of tape on the hose just downstream of the socket. This is an indicator to tell if the hose pushes out of the socket during the assembly process.


You are done when there is no more than 1/16 of an inch between the b-nut and the socket.


Then I took and installed the one end on the oil cooler. and routed the hose, marked it to length. I used a cut off wheel in a die grinder to cut the hose, ensuring it was a square cut. The process is then repeated. And the hose installed.


Then I installed the cylinder head temperature probes. They are lubricated with anti-seaze and installed into each cylinder.IMG_3023


Next was spark plugs. I am using P-Mags for ignition and using automotive spark plugs. My thinking is that 1) they are recommended by the P-Mag folks, 2) they are 1/4 the cost of aircraft spark plugs, so you can afford to replace them every year instead of cleaning and gaping old plugs. To install, put anti seize on the spark plug and install it into the adaptor. Put anti seize on the adaptor and put it into the cylinder. Then torque the both in place to 18 in-lbs. Of course, refer to the manual to be sure you are doing it correctly.




I also installed and safety wired the oil temperature probe. It took me 2 times to get the safety wire right, but another installation done.


Lastly, I took and installed the final hardware on the electrical components on the firewall.


It was quite enjoyable getting to do installation work. It seems like this kind of stuff goes much more smoothly than fabrication. Someone already engineered it, and most of these things are well documented, tested, and best practices established. Hopefully we get more things installed tomorrow, though I will be back to some fabrication as well.

2 thoughts on “Flying and Installation

  1. Quick question for you: what resin are you using for the inter cylinder baffle? I liked what you did and laid one up myself this afternoon. I am a little concerned about mine since I know with west systems my post cure will only be good to around 275 deg f. Are you just assuming that with airflow you will not get terribly hot?

    1. I was concerned about the temperatures as well. But I have a friend running a turboed VW with similar or hotter temperatures to a Lycoming. He has been running West baffles for the last 10 years without degradation or problem. I have considered putting a thin film of rtv on the cylinder side of the baffle, and as of yet am undecided on that. I suppose it can’t hurt anything. The hottest temperatures it will see is after engine shutdown for 15-45 minutes as the engine cools off. As long as it makes it through that, I don’t believe we will have problems. Though I have not tested it myself and don’t know for sure.

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